Onward and upward!

We are pleased to announce our very first contest!  Name Our Marmot!  Yes, we have a Marmot.  Actually, we have MANY Marmots.  Our Marmots live in the cement bulkheads that separate our bulk landscaping materials.  It isn’t unusual, in fact, it’s quite common, to see them pop their heads up looking around.

Here is the ringleader of our hoary marmot clan! THIS is the little guy you are naming! So now you can put a name to the face!

According to Wikipedia, Marmots are generally large ground squirrels in the genus Marmota, of which there are 15 species, and typically live in burrows (often within rockpiles, particularly in the case of the yellow-bellied Marmot), hibernating there through the winter. Those most often referred to as marmots tend to live in mountainous areas. The groundhog, however, is also sometimes called a marmot.  Most marmots are highly social and use loud whistles to communicate with one another, especially when alarmed.

If this has already happened to you this season, don’t despair. Those little charmers can brighten your porch, but do not plant them just yet. The soil is still cold and we will almost certainly get a few more frosts before mid-May. There is nothing to be gained by planting plants with tender leaves this early. They won’t start growing until the soil warms, and they might be damaged or killed by frost.

When is it safe to plant?  In general, the last frost date in our area is May 15th.  Many folks put in their bedding plants on Mother’s Day, while others wait for the snow to melt off of Hudlow Mountain. Some say to wait until the lilacs in your area begin to bloom.  These are all good guidelines, but for those in outlying areas that are known cold spots like Athol or Spirit Lake, push it back two more weeks. In any case, check the weather forecast every evening for sudden temperature drops and be prepared to protect the tender babies.

What is safe to plant now?  Any tree, shrub or perennial that was wintered over outdoors in our area is safe to plant now because it is at the right stage of growth for our climate. Bare root plants that are just breaking bud or are still dormant are safe as well.  Now is also a good time to plant cold hardy veggies like peas, spinach, kale, and just about anything else in the cabbage family.

Satisfy the urge for working in the dirt by, well, working in the dirt.  Dig compost and manure in, rake out beds, divide perennials, hoe weeds, but please, be patient and wait to plant tender annual flowers and cold sensitive vegetables like tomatoes and peppers or flushed out trees and shrubs.  You will be a much more relaxed and happy gardener if you do!

You can read much, much more on our Huckleberry Nursery Facebook Page or converse with  us on Twitter as well.  Or there’s always the old school way of visiting us in person at the nursery.  See ya there!

From the Earth Day website, “the first Earth Day on April 22, 1970, activated 20 million Americans from all walks of life and is widely credited with launching the modern environmental movement. The passage of the landmark Clean Air Act, Clean Water Act, Endangered Species Act and many other groundbreaking environmental laws soon followed. Growing out of the first Earth Day, Earth Day Network (EDN) works with over 22,000 partners in 192 countries to broaden, diversify and mobilize the environmental movement. More than 1 billion people now participate in Earth Day activities each year, making it the largest civic observance in the world.”  Greening Schools and Promoting Environmental Education, Accelerating the Global Green Economy and A Billion Acts of Green® are just a few of their programs.

As a society, I think we still throw away too many things.  I joke that, although we try and live greener lives, we still have turned into a throw away society.  For example, a toaster that doesn’t work as well, we throw away and get a new one.  Products are made to last the duration of the warranty period, but not past that.  We throw it away and buy a newer, better product.  Great for giving manufacturers more business, not so great for our landfills.

Our 3-bin compost system. There is a lack of dirt in bins 2 & 3 because we just switched it from another location last year. Disregard the Aspen starts in #2. They'll be moved soon.

We still have a long ways to go but we’re certainly getting better.  At my home, I’m still amazed on how little actual garbage we throw away.  What leftover food doesn’t go to our chickens (ok, or dogs) goes to our compost bin.  What can’t go there has gone down the garbage disposal.    If it’s a paper product it goes into the burn box to be burned.  What’s left goes into the actual garbage (chicken bones, soiled foil, wine bottles, etc…).  Don’t get me started on the lack of recycling that is around here or the wine bottles would go there.  Our area only JUST started back up with recycling cans, so THAT’S good.

Our garbage needs to be picked up just once a month because of all these things we do.  And we don’t even THINK about doing it, it just has become a natural habit.  Our house is just one house, one family, but we can still improve, as well.  If EVERYone created new habits that lead to greener living our world would be so much healthier.  The new normal, right?

At Huckleberry Nursery we endorse green fertilizing and natural weed killing.  There are nasty, NASTY pesticides that ruin our soils.  There ARE alternatives.  We’ll write about that, and more, in an upcoming blog post.

What are YOU doing for Earth Day 2012?  Leave a comment below or come visit us on our Facebook Page.  You can always Tweet your garden questions or statements, if that’s what you’d prefer to do.

Thanks for reading and we’ll see you at the nursery!

The first thing you want to do is make sure you have the right sized pot before even beginning.  Once that is established you will need to prune some of the roots, especially those that are broken and/or bent (as they will rot in the ground and could be a gateway to disease).  The large roots are the anchor roots, the ones that hold the tree up, while the smaller, thinner roots, called the hair roots, are the ones that actually take up moisture, as well as nutrients, for the tree.  Although, you will want to keep as many as you can, but they can start out with a surprisingly small amount of roots and do really well.

As far as pruning the top of the tree, those branches that are going to the inside should be pruned off, as well as any bent or broken branches.  You will find some branches are just messy, awkward and maybe even weak, and should also be removed.  The goal is to have a tree with branches that are “up and out”, as this will help the tree to grow a more uniform canopy.  When you are done removing the unwanted branches you will want to prune the tips off of the remaining branches to stimulate new growth.  When you do this be sure to cut into an outward facing bud.

At Huckleberry Nursery, we mostly pot of our plants with decomposed fir bark compost mixed with a little bit of actual top soil.  This soil make up is light enough to let water go through but enough humus in it to retain moisture.  You should fill the pot with enough soil to reach about 1″ below the graft.  Firm the soil slightly by tamping it with your hands and then water the tree in.  The first watering should be substantial so that the water gets down to those hair roots.

You’ll want to watch the video as Elaine explains why we don’t sell bare root trees OUT of the pot.  If you have any questions please feel free to leave a comment below or as us on Facebook or Twitter.  Or, if you live in the North Idaho area, please feel free to stop by and say, “Hello”.  We would love to meet you in person!

Thank you for reading and watching and we’ll see you at the nursery!

The first step in planning a garden project is to identify what you want to achieve. It can be one or many things, to be accomplished all in one season or over several years. Some examples of gardening goals would be: new perennial beds, an herb garden, privacy screening, a vegetable garden, shade trees, and renovation of older landscaping.

Next, look for examples of what you like in magazines, online and on neighborhood walks and garden shows. This will help you communicate your ideas to designers, contractors and garden center salespeople. The more solid your concept is, the easier it will be to achieve whether you are DIY or hiring contractors. Having a notebook full of things you like and even those you don’t will help you and every one involved.

Budget is an important consideration in any project plan. For things that take time to mature like privacy screens or shade trees, you can put them in early on so they have time to grow, or they can be purchased in larger sizes for faster results. Some projects cost only effort, like dividing perennials, removing sod to expand beds, or maintaining a compost pile.

Once your plans are complete it is time to make preparations.  Transferring plans from paper to the ground takes careful measuring and marking.  Using stakes can help you to better visualize plant placement and make adjustments as necessary.  If new beds are in your plans, try using a rope laid on the ground to get the shape just right.  Most landscaping projects require digging, and it is always a good idea to get a “locate” done to avoid cutting into any underground utilities.  A “locate” can be arranged free of charge by simply calling 811 two days before you dig.  Foregoing this step could result in a costly mistake, so it is an important part of your preparation.

Elaine cuts back last years Thyme. Doing this will give the beds a neat appearance and the new growth won't have to fight it's way through dead, matted foliage.

If winter arrived before you had a chance to clean up your perennial beds, now is the time.  Cutting back last year’s growth will give the beds a neat appearance and the new growth won’t have to fight it’s way through dead, matted foliage.  This is also a good time to assess which plants need to be divided or moved.

Even if the weather is too terrible to be outside, garden prep can still go on.  Checking on the availability of the plants on your list is a great rainy day job.  Special orders are more likely to be filled if placed early in the season.   Arranging for delivery of soils and other bulk materials is a good idea.  If you have a spot to keep it (like next to the driveway), it will be there when the sun finally comes out.  We’ll be happy to take your special order, if we haven’t got it in stock as well as supply you with top soil, compost and other bulk landscaping materials.  Our number is 208 762 4825 and we’re (finally) open Monday through Saturday, 9 AM to 5 PM.

If you are planning a vegetable garden, organize your seeds into types (like leafy greens) or by sowing time.  If you haven’t already done so, there is still time to start seeds for a jump start on what could be a short season.  We stock organic, heritage and non-GMO seeds from Botanical Interests, just in case you might be wondering.

By keeping busy with your plans and preparation you might just be able to keep your mind off that deep gray sky outside the window.  Spring is coming!  Really!

I hope that you have enjoyed reading our Winter Garden series as much as I have enjoyed writing them.  If you have another series of articles that would be of interest to you just let me know by commenting below.  You can also comment at ANY time on our Huckleberry Nursery Facebook Page.  Just be sure to “Like” us first!  If you are involved in the Twittersphere you can follow us there as well at HuckNursery.  If you can think of OTHER ways of making it easier for you to contact us, just let us know!  We’ll be on Pinterest shortly!

Thanks SO much for reading The Winter Landscape, and we’ll see you at the nursery!

Winter Trees

-William Carlos Williams, 1883-1963 

by Elaine Christen

Broadleaf deciduous trees are usually admired mostly in summer, when their canopies provide shade, in fall when they give us a kaleidoscopic color treat, and in spring when blooming varieties break the gloomy spell of winter with cheerful blossoms.  But don’t overlook winter as a prime season to enjoy the graceful structure and distinctive outline that dormant trees give to the landscape.

The process of dormancy is necessary for trees to survive the cold, dark months of winter.  When photosynthesis stops, sugars from the leaves go back into the twigs, branches, trunk and roots.  These stored sugars lower the freezing point of the tissues.  At this point senescence of the leaves has occurred. As water and nutrients stop flowing to them, they die and fall. As the leaves decompose, they enrich the soil and feed the tree.

While trees are dormant, they are not entirely inactive.  In late fall there is still warmth in the ground and the roots continue to grow slowly while the twigs have stopped completely.  When the tree enters the first stage of dormancy a growth inhibitor is present in the tissues.  After a certain period of chilling occurs, the growth inhibitor diminishes.  In the second part of dormancy the buds begin to lose their cold hardiness, begin to swell, and then break.

Knowing this, it makes it easy to appreciate the amazing cycle of regeneration in an organism that can live for generations or even centuries.

Winter is a great time to see of the beautiful frames of bare trees.  Last year’s bird nests that were invisible behind the leaves are revealed.  The characteristic silhouettes of different species become apparent.  Highlighted with frost or wind-blown snow, they become sculptural and enchanting.

March is a good time to prune trees in the Inland Northwest   They are still dormant but will be active soon enough for the rising sap to quickly heal cuts.  Pruning in fall can leave wounds unable to heal, which sometimes invites disease.  The exception is the removal of broken branches and too-long whippy branches which might cause further damage in winter winds.  Go ahead and prune these as necessary.  As winter progresses, evaluate your trees for shape and make mental notes about cuts to be made. Too- thick canopies can be damaged by high winds.   Thinning the canopy just 15-20%, allows wind to pass through more easily and also allows better air circulation, helping to prevent fungal diseases.

Dormant trees are pure potential. Each bud holds the promise of a leaf, a flower, a fruit, a twig. They sleep and wait for cues—lengthening days, warming temperatures.  When the time is right the fat buds burst and a new cycle begins.  As we wait for spring, take time to notice the bare trees while you can see their true character and appreciate the remarkable resilience they possess.

Thank you for following our series on The Winter Garden.  Next up: the sixth and final installment, “Plans and Preparation”.  We would be honored if you would check out our Facebook page as well as follow us on Twitter.  Until next time!

The fact that they keep their foliage or needles actually makes some evergreens a little more challenging to winter over than deciduous plants.  Broadleaf evergreens like boxwood or rhododendrons are susceptible to breakage and crushing by snow loads, and can also transpire (breath) more moisture than they can absorb.  Newly transplanted needled trees such as spruce, fir and pine shed rain and snow off their outer drip line where the smaller root ball can’t access the moisture.  Needled trees also transpire, but at a slower rate than broadleaf evergreens.

These pitfalls are easy to avoid.  By deep watering several times in fall through the end of October, the ground will have ample moisture in place before the frost layer locks out any more.  Another way to ensure winter survival, especially of new transplants, is the use of an anti-transpirant.  Anti-transpirants such as Wil-pruf, coat the needles or leaves with a film that slows down transpiration, preventing winter desiccation. They are simple to apply with a spray bottle.

As far as avoiding snow-caused breaking and crushing, here are two strategies to employ.    Place susceptible plants in areas where roof or snow-blower condensed snow does not accumulate.  If plain heavy snow is a problem, try pounding rebar stakes in a triangle within the branch structure halfway between the main stem and the outer perimeter of the plant.  Before a big snow occurs, use strong twine to encircle the plant, gently pulling the branches upward and inward with the rebar for support.  This gives the plant the extra strength it needs to hold up under the weight of the snow.  Release the twine in late winter so the branches can relax to their natural shape.

When designing with evergreens, as with any plant, one of the most important considerations is that of mature size.  Those five gallon spruce trees might look just right flanking your walkway, but when they start to take off and get fifteen feet wide, there will no longer be a walkway, just two trees squished together.  Always design with the mature size in mind.  If the layout seems a little sparse, fill in with easily moved perennials rather than planting permanent anchor plants too closely.

Evergreens are useful for bringing vibrant green (or blue or yellow) color to the landscape in an otherwise austere season.  Having some evergreen shrubs near the entrance of a home can look much more welcoming in winter than just dormant twigs.  If you have the space in your lawn, a large evergreen tree makes an excellent focal point along with providing safe haven for songbirds.  Evergreen groundcovers provide that touch of green when the lawn is a sad tan.

Think of evergreens as “anchor” plants, providing the framework around which to design your landscape.  Below are listed some good choices in three categories with an abbreviated description of each.

Trees

The beautiful Colorado Blue Spruce will look good in almost any landscape.

Spruce   

Colorado Blue Spruce, 40-60’ tall x 10-20’ wide. The shade of blue depends on seed stock.  For bluest tree, choose a variety grown from cuttings such as ‘Hoops’ or the short and wide ‘Fat Albert’.  All are hardy in zones 2-8. 

Black Hills Spruce, 20-25’ tall x 10-12’ wide is easier to fit into the average sized yard.  The bright green new needles mature to a blue-green color. Zones 2-8.

Fir

Subalpine Fir, 60-100’ tall x 2-5’ wide.  Extensively planted in our area, this tree looks cute and Charley Brownish when young, but thickens up and grows tall faster than most people expect.  In 20 years, the tree will reach 15-25’, so it will take three or more generations to reach its mature height.  Hardy in zones 4-7, it suffers in hot, dry summers.  Consistent irrigation is essential to success.

Concolor (or White) Fir, 40-50’  tall x 15-20’ wide.  Concolors are similar in appearance to Blue Spruce, but with longer, very soft needles. Hardy in zones 4-7, it appreciates consistent moisture but is more drought tolerant than the Subalpine fir.

Pine

Vanderwolf’s Pyramid Limber Pine, 15-20’ tall x 8-12’ wide.  With a dense, compact habit and bluish, twisted needles, this is a tree with  good color, texture and size.  There is also a weeping variety that gets about 10’ tall and 6’ wide called Weeping Limber Pine that looks particularly good next to water features.  Zones 4-7.

Austrian Pine, 40’ tall x 20-30’ wide.  This pine was introduced in this country in 1759 and has been valued for its dark green color and extreme toughness ever since.  Pyramidal in youth, it gets a flattened crown at maturity.  As with most pines, the lower branches die as the tree matures, so the tree takes on the profile of a deciduous shade tree.  Zones 4-7.

Shrubs

Hick’s Yew, 8-10’ tall x 3-5’ wide.  Short, deep green needles, a dense habit and tolerance of shade and shearing make yews the ultimate hedge plant.  Its cousin, the Dark Green Spreader Yew gets 3-4’ tall x 4-6’ wide. There are many other variations as well.  They all bear fleshy scarlet berries which are poisonous so take care in placement of these plants. Zones 4-7.

Boxwood, size varies. A classic hedge plant with its bright green, small oval leaves, boxwoods look equally charming unshorn.  Winter Gem gets 2-4’ tall and wide, Dwarf English just 1-2’ tall and wide, and Green Mountain gets 5’ tall x 3’ wide.  Boxwood can take some shade and is hardy in zones 5-9.

Oregon Grape Holly boasts masses of yellow flowers in spring as well as reddish-purple winter color.

Compact Oregon Grape Holly, 2-3’ tall x 3-4’ wide.  This plant has reddish new growth, masses of yellow flowers in spring, glossy deep green foliage in summer accented with blue edible berries and reddish-purple winter color.  It likes full to partial sun, is deer resistant and attracts birds.  This is a wonderful plant.  Zones 4-7.

Rhododendron, size varies.  With hundreds of varieties of this well-known plant available, just be aware that hardiness varies and be careful to purchase only specimens that are clearly labeled to be hardy to at least 15 degrees below zero for our area.  Some readers may need even hardier varieties. Certain Rhodies are hardy down to  -30.   Most do best in partial sun and rich, moist soil.  With their  large trusses of colorful flowers, they are worth a little bit of extra care.

Ground Covers

A native to North Idaho, also known as Bearberry, Kinnikinnick boasts tiny pale pink bell shaped flowers in spring!

Kinnickinnick, 6”-1’ tall x 2-3’wide.  A native also known as Bearberry, this plant boasts tiny pale pink bell shaped flowers in spring, persistent red berries and shiny evergreen leaves year round.  Likes full to partial sun.  Zones 2-6.

Creeping Phlox, 6” tall x 2-3’ wide.  This unassuming mat of bright green needle-like leaves announces itself in spring by covering itself in star shaped flowers of blue, pink or white.  If it gets a light shearing after the flowers fade, it will bloom again, but not with as much gusto.  If not shorn, it will still look fine.  They’re very nice draping over low walls, in rock gardens or as edging.  Zones 3-8.

There are many additional worthy evergreen plants to profile, but space doesn’t allow.  If I omitted a favorite of yours, let me know by commenting below, e-mailing me at info@huckleberrynursery.com, writing on our Facebook wall or on Twitter (see hyperlinks for Facebook and Twitter below).  I can include it in a future article!  Evergreens are an important element of any landscape.  I hope you are inspired to add some to your garden.  Thanks so much for following The Winter Landscape series.  I’ve thoroughly enjoyed writing this series to help add some colorful and creative ideas for intercepting the drabness of Winter.  Most everyday we post all things plants, landscaping and just plain fun, on our Facebook page, and I would encourage you to stop by and give us a “Like”.  We are also on Twitter, if that’s your cup of tea.

Next time: The Beauty of Dormant Trees.

Designing a garden is a balancing act of complementary color, texture, size and shape, as well as bloom time and fall foliage color.  By following this concept, the colors of the berries will usually just naturally harmonize.  Here are some excellent berry-bearers:

Trees

European Mountain Ash  Sorbus aucuparia

This is a small (25-30’ high x 15-20’ wide), low branching tree that has something to offer in every season: white flowers, multihued fall foliage, and in winter, clusters of reddish-orange berries that catch the snow.  As spring approaches, flocks of robins feast upon the fruit, which can be quite a spectacle in itself. It likes full to partial sun, well-drained soil and is hardy in zones 4-7.

Ice encrusted Hawthorn can look spectacular. This photo found at gooselakeweather.com

Washington Hawthorn  Crateagus phaenopyrum

Another all-season star, the Washington Hawthorn shines with white flowers in late spring, orange to red fall color and bright red, persistent fruit in winter.  And thorns. Big ones.  This makes pruning a challenge, but also makes it a good screen for deterring trespassers.  At 25-35’  tall and wide it is a manageable size for most yards and is hardy in zones 5-9.  Plant in full sun.

Crabapple Malus sp.

There are dozens of sizes, shapes and colors of crabapples available, too many to list here.  That said, they are one of the best color providers in the garden.  With flowers in every shade of pink, scarlet, purple and white, bright green to burgundy summer foliage, yellow, orange and red fall leaves and fruit that can be yellow, golden, every shade of red, two toned, and even green, this tree has serious wow factor.  Two prime choices are:  Prairifire with deep pink flowers and shiny red fruit.  Golden Raindrops has cut leaves for a lacy effect, white flowers and golden yellow fruit.  Hardy in zone 4-8, likes full sun.

Shrubs

Winterberry  Ilex verticillata

This is the quintessential berry plant, imitated in craft stores and paintings of frosty scenes.  It is a deciduous holly and being a holly, it is dioecious.  This means that both a male and female plant is necessary for berry production and that only female plants have berries.  One male plant will pollinate several females so if you want a hedge of Winterberry, plant females such as ‘Winter Sprite’ and just make sure you have one male like  ‘Jim Dandy’  lurking nearby in the background.

Varieties range in size from 4-10’ tall and wide.  Hollies tolerate pruning, so controlling size is not difficult, but choose a variety that is close to the desired range so a natural shape is easier to maintain.

A natural choice for hedges, Winterberry also makes an excellent background or specimen plant.  It prefers constantly moist soil, full to partial sun and is hardy in zones 4-8.

This is a Wentworth Vibernum in all its glory.

American Cranberry  Viburnum trilobum ‘Wentworth’

There are scads of viburnum species out there and they are terrific plants, but for winter berries, Wentworth is one of the best.  This improved cultivar of the V. trilobum species has larger berries that last longer into winter.  After blooming with white lacecap flowers in spring, the berries start out yellow in summer, gradually turning glossy bright red, glowing against the maple-shaped green foliage which turns to deep pink then brick red in the fall.  Its dense habit makes it a good choice for screens and hedges.  Growing to 8-10’ tall and nearly as wide, be sure to give it the space it needs to shine. Wentworth likes full sun, and is hardy in zones 4-7.

Chokeberry  Aronia sp.

Chokeberry is named for its tart, bitter, yet edible red or black fruit, the very one now enjoying celebrity status as an antioxidant superstar.  As an ornamental, it is equally stellar, with sparkling white fragrant flowers in spring, shiny green leaves in summer, blazing fall color and the famed berries from late summer through winter.

 A. melanocarpa  ‘Autumn Magic’ has black berries, gets 4-5’ tall by 5-6’ wide and is hardy in zones 3-8.  A. arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’ is an improved red berried variety which gets 5-7’ tall by 3-4’ wide and is hardy in zones 4-9.  Both do best in full sun and consistently moist soil.

A luscious example of a Beautyberry.

Beautyberry  Callicarpa bodinieri‘Profusion’

Aptly named, this plant is unassuming until late summer and fall when the berries ripen to a shocking neon purple.  The soft yellow fall foliage complements the bright clusters until it drops, leaving the twigs swathed in flamboyant glory.  Technically a zone 6-8 plant, zone fivers can treat Beautyberry as a perennial, mulching in fall and cutting it back to a few inches in late winter.   It blooms and therefore berries on new wood, so this method is a good way to ensure survival, and keep the plant tidy and fresh.  For folks in zones 6-8, just thin 25% of the stems to the ground every year.

Depending on pruning practices, expect a size of 4-6’ tall and wide.  Berries are more numerous on plants grown in the sun, and where there is more than one plant.  Plant Beautyberry where it can show off in fall and winter and blend in the rest of the time as a graceful green shrub.

Berried (not buried!) plants bring so much to the garden in all seasons along with providing much needed food for birds and wildlife.  See where you can fit some into your landscape for four season beauty.

Thank you, so much, for following my series on the winter landscape.  Next week: Evergreens!  And don’t forget you can follow us on Twitter at http://twitter.com/hucknursery or “Like” us on Facebook at http://facebook.com/huckleberrynursery.  We can’t wait to connect with you!

Happy gardening!

Ideas for incorporating these beauties into your garden are everywhere, once you are looking for them.  Take a drive in the mountains or a hike in the woods and you will start noticing the yellow glow of willow stems or the deep red twigs of dogwood shrubs.  With snow and frost providing a stark backdrop, textured stems like those of the ninebark really stand out.  Likewise, colored stems that are pretty in the brown and tan of early winter really pop once the ground is covered with snow.

To get maximum impact from colored and textured stems, use thoughtful placement.  Colored stems are brightest when massed, while textured stems work best as an accent or specimen. Dark colored backgrounds such as evergreens show off lighter colored stems and textures, while a light background brings out darker tones.

For the brightest stems, practice restorative pruning. In early spring, simply remove about 25 percent of the stems as close to the ground as possible.  The resulting new growth will be smooth and bright.  Each year remove a few of the oldest stems to keep the plant fresh looking.

Textured stems, on the other hand, look better as they mature, so they need to be allowed to gain age and girth, while selectively pruning out smaller twigs to accentuate the plant’s form and interesting bark.

Here are some good choices for enhancing the winter view out your window:

Colored Stems

Red Twig Dogwood   Cornus sericea

This is truly an all season plant, with clusters of creamy white flowers in early summer giving way to small bluish-white berries that birds love.  The clean, bright green leaves turn purplish bronze in the fall, and in winter, the green stems turn bright red.   There are many cultivars available, from the trusty Baileyi, which gets 8’ tall and wide, to the medium sized Isanti at 5’ tall and 7’ wide, and the dwarf Kelseyi, which only gets 30” tall and wide and has much finer stems.  Red twigs are perfect for soggy spots that would kill other plants, but do just fine with normal, consistent watering in regular soils, too.  Hedges, accents in borders, and screens are just some uses.  Hardy in zones 2-8, full to part sun.

Yellow Twig Dogwood  Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea’

Indistinguishable from Red Twig dogwoods during the summer, the yellow twig earns its name as the temperatures fall along with the leaves.  The bright yellow twigs are a standout accent or hedge, especially with a backdrop of deep green evergreens.  They have the same hardiness and sun requirements as Red Twigs.

Golden Curls Willow  Salix matsudana ‘Golden Curls’

A small tree or large shrub, Golden Curls is showy in many ways—curly, semi-pendulous orangey-yellow branches, useful in floral arrangements, and spectacular in winter.  A dusting of snow brings out all of the twisty details of this accent plant.  Fast growing to 15-20’, then slower to 25’.  This plant can also be coppiced (cut back to the ground) to form a dense shrub with intense stem color.  Otherwise, practice restorative pruning to keep fresh stems coming.  Hardy to zone 4, full to part sun, moderate deep water.  For a reddish stemmed version, try ‘Scarlet Curls’.

Japanese Kerria Kerria japonica ‘Pleniflora’

A graceful, arching shrub with half dollar sized double yellow flowers in late spring, the Japanese Kerria is a beautiful accent for a semi shady spot.  It can tolerate wet or dry soils and reaches 5-7’ tall and 6-8’ wide. These attributes alone make this plant worth owning, but in winter it works overtime by adding a large splash of bright green twigs.  As with other spring bloomers, they flower on last year’s stems, so prune only after they bloom.  Restorative pruning keeps Kerria clean and fresh.  Hardy in zones 5 to 9.

Colored Stems plus Texture

Amur Chokecherry Prunus maackii  

This is another all season gem—white flowers in spring, bright green foliage, clusters of deep red berries and luminous yellow fall color, and shiny, peeling cinnamon colored bark.  What’s not to love?  If you want a tree to live in your lawn, don’t pick this one. It needs deep, well- drained soil and will die with wet feet. It lives just 20-40 years. But with all its attributes, along with a manageable 20’ height, it is worth having as a specimen, especially when it is up-lit at night.  Full sun, hardy to zone 3.

Textured Stems

Ninebark Physocarpus opulifolius

Ninebark is one of those bullet-proof plants that work well in any garden with some space to fill. Although they are available in yellow and green leaved varieties, the purple ones really shine.  Vertically peeling grey and brown bark add winter interest, while deep purple to burgundy leaves and pinkish white flowers provide a strong background for lighter, more delicate plants.  ‘Diablo’ is the darkest ninebark, and the largest at 8-10’ tall and wide.  ‘Coppertina’ starts coppery in spring, becoming rich burgundy in summer and gets 8’ tall and 5’ wide.  ‘Center Glow’ emerges rosy burgundy with a golden center, becoming deep burgundy and gets 6’ tall and wide.   ‘Summer Wine’ is a compact version of ‘Diablo’,reaching 5’ tall and wide. They all like full sun and are hardy at least to zone 3.

Here is an example of a River Birch, with it's colorful, textured stem, chocked full of personality.

River Birch  Betula nigra

The River Birch is a tough, super hardy tree that only needs lots of water and a place to show off its peeling two-tone bark. At just 20-25’ tall and 15-20’ wide it will fit into almost any yard.  It is resistant to birch borer and is fire resistant as well.  Try up-lighting for spectacular  night effects.  Full to part sun, hardy in zones 4-7.

I hope these suggestions inspire you to add some new plants to your winter landscape. In coming years, you can look outside at a much more interesting snow-scape!

Next week I’ll write about, ”Plants With Colorful Berries”.  In the meantime, please visit us on Facebook, if you’re so inclined.  And if you’re a Twitter hound (who isn’t, right?), you can find us on Twitter HERE. 

Thank you so much for reading!

In this, the first in a series of six articles, I will explore the many applications of a versatile, yet under sung hero of the winter landscape:  Ornamental grasses.  Grasses add an element of texture and color to the garden in every season, but are especially valuable in winter.  Their flower heads remain on the plant all season, providing structure, interest and, most importantly, motion.   When those cold winds blow, swaying grasses bring movement to an otherwise still scene.

Grasses can be used in just about every part of the landscape, from containers, to edging, rock gardens to water features.  They look great in masses or as a single specimen.  With sizes anywhere from mini to giant, there is a variety to fill any nook or gaping space.

If these virtues are not reason enough to try grasses, there is also toughness.  All of the varieties listed below are hardy to at least zone 5 (-20 degrees).  Many are drought tolerant once established and most are deer resistant, which is the main requirement for many gardeners in North Idaho. 

Caring for these garden gems couldn’t be easier: moderate water (unless otherwise noted), fertilize with a balanced fertilizer when growth begins in spring, and divide every two to three years.  After they lend their grace to the winter garden, cut them back to two to six inches, depending on the variety (the shorter the mature size, the shorter they get cut back).  Be sure to give them their annual haircut before new growth begins to avoid cutting the tips of the new leaves.  Late February is usually about right.

Elaine nestled amidst some Little Bluestem grasses.

Here are some of my favorite grasses along with some design ideas:

 Maiden Grass  Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’

This arching, clumping grass quickly grows 5-7’ tall and 3-4’wide with flower heads a bit taller than the leaves. Tan to bronze fall color persists through winter.  Perfect for screening, accents and back of borders.   For smaller versions, try ‘Morning Light’, 4-5’ tall and 2’wide, or ‘Little Kitten’, just 2-3’ tall and 12”-18” wide.  Best in full sun, all are zones 5-9, and are deer resistant.

Golden Japanese Forest Grass  Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’

Graceful and colorful, this grass lends the look of bamboo to the shadier parts of your garden. Yellow blades with thin green stripes light up dark areas of the landscape.  Great as ground cover or in borders, it is beautiful with darker plants like Ajuga reptans ‘Bronze Beauty’.  It was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2009.  It is slow growing and gets 18” tall and wide.  Hardy in zones 5-9 and deer resistant.

Feather Reed Grass Calamagrostis x acutifolia ‘Karl Foerster’

For strong vertical effects, this is the perfect grass.  The green foliage gets about 2’ tall and wide, while the flower stalks can reach 6’.  Useful for the back of the border or a quick screen, it looks dramatic in containers or as an accent plant.  ‘Karl’ was named  Perennial Plant of the Year in 2001.  Other Feather Reed Grasses are: ‘Overdam’ which features gold leaf margins, and ‘Avalanche’, with white mid-ribs and 3-4’ tall foliage.  They all like full sun, are hardy in zones 4-9 and are deer resistant.

Blue Oat Grass Helictroctrichon semperviroens ‘Sapphire’

This evergreen grass really stands out with its steely blue colored stiff blades topped with buff colored flowers.  At 18-24” tall and wide, it fits into many applications, including rock gardens and mass plantings.  Its distinctive color contrasts nicely with purple leaved plants like Smoke Bush or Barberry.  Blue Oat Grass likes full sun, is hardy to zone 4, drought tolerant, fire resistant, and deer resistant.

Dwarf Fountain Grass Pennesisetum alopecuroides ‘Hamlin’

As the name suggests, this graceful green grass is fountain shaped with buff colored plumes held above the foliage.  It is a natural for dry stream beds, next to boulders, in mixed borders and in containers.   It gets 2-3’ high and 1-2’ wide, likes full sun and is drought tolerant.  For a smaller version, try ‘Little Bunny’ at just 10-12” tall and wide.  Hamlin is hardy to zone 4, Little Bunny to zone 5.

Ice Dance Japanese Sedge Carex morrowii ‘Ice Dance’

With white margins on green blades 12” tall and a habit of slowly spreading, Ice Dance is a perfect groundcover for a shady, moist spot, standing out amongst darker leaved shade lovers.  With enough water, it can also tolerate some sun as well.  At home in bog gardens and water gardens, Ice Dance is evergreen to -10 Fahrenheit and hardy in zones 5-9.

Porcupine Grass Miscanthus sinensis ‘Strictus’

For a big, dramatic statement, Porcupine grass fills the bill.  With its upright, 8’ tall and 3’ wide size, along with distinct gold horizontal banding, this grass fairly shouts “Look at me!”  Beautiful in large containers, anchoring a corner, or as a showy screen, this sun lover is hardy in zones 4-9 and is deer resistant.

Purple Silver Grass Miscanthus sinensis ‘Purpurascens’

The name says it all; silvery green clumping grass with purplish plumes, with the bonus of bright orangey-red fall color that lasts through most of winter.  This flashy relative of Maiden Grass is a compact 3-4’ tall and wide with flowers reaching 5-6’.  It accepts both full and part sun and will add four season interest to the border, containers and accents.  It is hardy in zones 4-9 and is deer resistant.

Black Flowering Fountain Grass Pennisetumalopecuroides  ‘Moudry’

This is another fountain grass that can be used just about anywhere.  2’ tall by 3’ wide with blackish flowers and orange fall color, this easy to love choice is hardy to zone 5 and is deer resistant.

Now that I’ve introduced you to the charms of grasses, you will probably want to run right out and buy some.  Well, you will need to be patient, because they usually are not sold in garden centers until late May or early June. Until then they don’t look like much because they are cut back in the pots by the growers.  While you wait, wander around your garden and imagine how grasses can add their special beauty to your landscape winter, spring, summer and fall.

I’m very much looking forward to this series, The Winter Landscape.  Next in series:  Plants with Colorful/Textured Stems.  Until then, thank you very much for reading.  If you have any comments on this or other blog posts, please don’t hesitate to ask them here or on our Facebook page or even through Twitter!